desi liquor guide (2026) — toddy, feni, mahua, handia, and india's forgotten drinks

tldr: india has some of the world’s most diverse traditional alcohol traditions, and almost nobody talks about them. toddy (fermented palm sap, rs 20-40/glass in kerala) is essentially natural palm wine. feni is goa’s GI-tagged cashew/coconut spirit that’s gone premium. mahua is a tribal flower spirit from central india that’s almost impossible to buy commercially. handia is jharkhand’s rice beer, drunk at festivals and ceremonies. then there’s arrack, thaati kallu, lugdi, apong, and zu, each tied to a specific region and community. most of these are dying out or being pushed underground by excise laws. feni is the only one that’s been successfully commercialized. the rest survive through cultural persistence, not commercial viability.

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india is the world’s largest whisky market. we have an incredible variety of beer, a growing wine and gin scene, and every major international spirit brand fighting for shelf space. and yet, some of the most interesting alcoholic drinks in the country are ones that most urban indians have never tried, never seen, and might not even know exist.

toddy. feni. mahua. handia. arrack. these aren’t obscure novelties. they’re drinks with centuries of history, deep cultural significance, and flavour profiles that no commercial brand can replicate. they’re made from palm sap, cashew fruit, mahua flowers, fermented rice, and coconut, using techniques that have been passed down through generations.

this guide covers india’s traditional and indigenous alcoholic drinks: what they are, where to find them, how they taste, and why most of them are disappearing. i’ve tried toddy in kerala and feni in goa. for the rest, i’m drawing on research, conversations with people from those regions, and whatever documentation exists for drinks that rarely get written about.

this guide is part of liquor india, where i cover every major alcohol brand available in india. no sponsors, no affiliate links.

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why this guide exists

nobody writes about desi liquor. seriously. search for “best whisky in india” and you’ll get a hundred articles. search for “mahua liquor” or “handia beer” and you’ll find a wikipedia page, a few academic papers, and maybe a travel blog that mentions it in passing.

this gap exists because of three things:

stigma. in india, “country liquor” carries baggage. it’s associated with poverty, rural drinking, hooch tragedies, and alcohol abuse. IMFL (branded spirits like blenders pride and old monk) is seen as respectable. desi daru is seen as something else. this is classist and historically unfair, but it’s the reality that shapes consumer behaviour and media coverage.

legal grey areas. many traditional drinks exist in regulatory limbo. some states ban their production. others tax them so heavily that traditional producers can’t compete with IMFL. the lack of clear, supportive legal frameworks has pushed production underground in many regions.

commercialization failure. feni is the exception that proves the rule. goa’s cashew spirit got a GI tag, attracted premium brands, and found its way into cocktail bars. every other traditional indian spirit has failed to make this transition. there’s no brand behind mahua. no marketing budget for handia. no instagram presence for thaati kallu.

this guide is a small attempt to change that, or at least to document what exists before it disappears entirely.

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toddy (palm wine)

toddy is probably the most widely consumed traditional alcohol in south india, and it’s also the easiest one to try if you’re visiting the right states.

what is toddy?

toddy (also called kallu in telugu, tadi in hindi/marathi, and neera when non-fermented) is the fermented sap of palm trees. tappers climb coconut, palmyra, or date palm trees at dawn, make incisions in the flower stalks, and collect the sap in clay or plastic pots tied to the tree.

fresh, unfermented palm sap (neera) is sweet, nutritious, and non-alcoholic. it’s basically palm tree water with natural sugars. but the moment it’s collected, natural yeasts begin fermenting those sugars into alcohol. within 4-6 hours, the sap becomes mildly alcoholic toddy. by evening, it can reach 4-8% ABV, similar to beer.

this natural fermentation is what makes toddy unique. no yeast is added. no processing is required. the drink literally makes itself.

where to find toddy

state	local name	palm type	availability
kerala	kallu	coconut palm	toddy shops everywhere, thousands across the state
goa	toddy/sur	coconut palm	toddy bars and local shops
tamil nadu	kallu/pathaneer	palmyra palm	toddy shops in rural and semi-urban areas
andhra pradesh	kallu	palmyra palm	toddy shops, less urban availability
telangana	thaati kallu	palmyra palm	toddy shops, especially in rural areas
karnataka	toddy	coconut/palmyra palm	limited, select licensed shops
maharashtra	tadi	date palm, palmyra	some rural areas, not widely available
west bengal	tadi	date palm	seasonal, rural areas

the kerala toddy shop experience

if there’s one place to try toddy, it’s kerala. the state has an extensive network of licensed toddy shops (kallushap) that serve fresh toddy along with food. these aren’t fancy bars. they’re typically simple establishments with basic seating, where you sit down, order toddy by the pot, and eat kerala-style food alongside it.

the food at toddy shops is legendary. tapioca with fish curry, karimeen fry (pearl spot fish), crab roast, duck curry, beef fry. many keralities will tell you that the best non-vegetarian food in the state comes from toddy shops, not restaurants.

toddy costs rs 20-40 per glass and rs 80-150 per pot at most shops. it’s served in steel glasses, slightly warm from natural fermentation, with a slightly sour and yeasty taste. fresh morning toddy is sweeter and milder. evening toddy is stronger and more sour.

what toddy tastes like

fresh toddy tastes like slightly sour, mildly fizzy coconut water with a yeasty undertone. it’s cloudy white, has a thin consistency, and goes down easy. the flavour changes throughout the day as fermentation continues. morning toddy is sweet and barely alcoholic. afternoon toddy has a noticeable tang. evening toddy is sour and noticeably stronger.

if you’re used to commercial beer, toddy will taste unusual at first. it’s not carbonated like beer, not as clean-tasting, and has a natural, raw quality that no bottled product replicates. it grows on you quickly.

the commercialization problem

toddy’s biggest enemy is its own biology. it cannot be stored or transported effectively. the moment the sap is collected, fermentation begins and doesn’t stop. within 24-48 hours, toddy turns too sour to drink pleasantly. you can’t bottle it, ship it, or stock it in a store the way you can with beer or wine.

some companies have tried to pasteurize or stabilize toddy for commercial sale, but the process kills the natural character that makes toddy special. canned or bottled “toddy” products exist in some markets but they taste nothing like the fresh version.

this is why toddy remains hyperlocal. you have to go to where it’s made, on the day it’s made.

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feni (cashew and coconut spirit)

feni is the one indian traditional spirit that has successfully crossed over from local curiosity to premium product. it has a geographical indication (GI) tag, commercial brands, export markets, and a presence in craft cocktail bars. for a detailed guide, see my feni guide for goa.

what is feni?

feni is a spirit distilled from the fermented juice of cashew apples (cashew feni) or coconut palm sap (coconut feni) in goa. it’s been produced in goa for over 400 years, predating the arrival of whisky, rum, and vodka in india.

cashew feni: made from the juice of ripe cashew apples (the fruit attached to the cashew nut). the apples are stomped to extract juice, the juice is fermented naturally for 3-5 days, and then distilled in traditional copper pot stills called bhatti. single distillation produces urrack (15-20% ABV). double distillation produces cazulo (20-30% ABV). triple distillation produces feni (40-45% ABV).

coconut feni: made from toddy (fermented coconut palm sap) that is distilled rather than consumed as-is. less common than cashew feni but historically significant in goa.

feni brands and prices

brand	type	price (goa)	price (outside goa)	notes
big boss	cashew feni	rs 200-350	rs 400-600	most widely available brand
cazulo	cashew feni	rs 500-800	rs 700-1200	premium positioning, good for sipping
reiuva	cashew feni	rs 600-1000	rs 800-1400	craft feni, small batch
madame rosa	cashew feni	rs 400-600	limited availability	mid-range, reliable
local/unbranded	both types	rs 100-200	not available	taverna and bar pours

how to drink feni

neat with a lime: the traditional goan way. pour 30-60ml of cashew feni, squeeze a lime wedge, sip slowly. good feni has a complex, fruity nose from the cashew apple and a clean, slightly funky finish. it’s an acquired taste for people used to whisky or vodka.

feni with kokum soda: a goan classic. feni mixed with kokum (a local berry) flavoured soda or kokum juice. refreshing, tart, and uniquely goan.

feni cocktails: craft bartenders in goa and mumbai have started using feni in cocktails. a feni sour (feni, lime juice, sugar, egg white) and feni caipirinha (feni, lime, sugar, crushed ice) are both excellent.

the GI tag success story

feni received a geographical indication (GI) tag in 2009, making it the first liquor in india to get this protection. the GI tag means only cashew or coconut spirit produced in goa can be called “feni.” this has been transformative for the spirit’s identity and commercial viability.

brands like cazulo and reiuva have positioned feni as a premium, artisanal product rather than cheap country liquor. they’ve invested in bottle design, marketing, and quality control. feni is now available in select bars and liquor stores across india, and it’s exported to several countries.

this commercialization model is what every other traditional indian spirit needs but doesn’t have.

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mahua (flower spirit)

mahua is perhaps the most culturally significant traditional alcohol in india, and simultaneously the most invisible to urban consumers.

what is mahua?

mahua is a spirit distilled from the flowers of the mahua tree (madhuca longifolia), a tree that grows abundantly across central and eastern india. the mahua flower is sweet, fleshy, and rich in natural sugars, making it ideal for fermentation and distillation.

the process: mahua flowers are collected after they fall from the tree (typically march-april), dried in the sun, soaked in water, and left to ferment naturally for 3-7 days. the fermented liquid is then distilled in traditional pot stills. the result is a clear to slightly amber spirit with a distinctive sweet, floral character.

mahua ABV ranges from 20% for a light distillation to 45% for multiple distillations.

where mahua comes from

state	tribal communities	status
jharkhand	santal, munda, ho, oraon	deeply embedded in tribal culture, legal grey area
chhattisgarh	baiga, gond, korwa	traditional production, limited commercialization
madhya pradesh	bhil, gond, baiga	common in tribal areas, regulated
odisha	santal, kondh, bonda	ceremonial use, production for personal consumption
maharashtra	bhil, warli (eastern maharashtra)	limited, mostly rural
rajasthan	bhil, meena (southern rajasthan)	seasonal production

cultural significance

mahua is not just alcohol for tribal communities. it’s woven into social, religious, and ceremonial life. mahua is offered during prayers. it’s served at weddings, births, and funerals. it’s used in traditional medicine. the mahua tree itself is considered sacred by many tribal communities, and its flowers are a source of food, oil, and income beyond alcohol production.

banning or restricting mahua production (which many state governments have done at various points) isn’t just an alcohol regulation issue. it’s an assault on tribal cultural practices. this tension between excise policy and tribal rights has been a long-running conflict in states like jharkhand and chhattisgarh.

the legal grey area

mahua exists in a complicated legal space. in most states, producing mahua for personal consumption is technically tolerated but commercially selling it without a license is illegal. the problem is that getting a commercial liquor license for mahua production is nearly impossible in most states because excise frameworks are designed for IMFL, not traditional spirits.

some states have made attempts to regulate and commercialize mahua. madhya pradesh has explored licensing mahua production. jharkhand has discussed creating a framework for traditional alcohol. but progress is slow, and most mahua production remains informal and unregulated.

can you buy mahua?

honestly, in most of india, no. there is no mahua brand on a shelf at your local wine shop. you cannot order it online. if you want to try mahua, you need to visit a tribal area during the right season (march-may when flowers are available) and find someone who produces it.

a few craft spirit startups have explored using mahua as a base for commercial products, but as of 2026, there’s no widely available mahua brand. this is the drink most in need of the “feni treatment” but least likely to get it because of the regulatory and cultural complexities involved.

what mahua tastes like

based on descriptions from people who’ve had it and the few food/drink journalists who’ve written about it: mahua has a distinctive sweet, floral aroma from the flowers. the taste is earthy, slightly sweet, and smoky if traditionally distilled. well-made mahua is smooth and drinkable. poorly made mahua can be harsh and unpleasant. the quality depends entirely on the skill of the distiller.

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handia (rice beer)

handia is the traditional rice beer of jharkhand and odisha, made primarily by tribal communities and consumed during festivals, ceremonies, and regular social occasions.

what is handia?

handia is fermented rice beer. cooked rice is mixed with ranu (traditional fermentation starter tablets made from herbs, roots, and wild yeast), placed in clay or mud pots, covered, and left to ferment for 5-7 days. water is added, and the resulting liquid is handia: a cloudy, slightly sour, mildly alcoholic beverage.

ABV: typically 5-8%, similar to commercial beer but without carbonation.

how handia is made

the process is deceptively simple but requires traditional knowledge, particularly in making the ranu tablets.

1. rice is cooked and spread out to cool
2. ranu tablets (made from a specific blend of herbs and rice powder, with wild yeast) are crushed and mixed into the rice
3. the mixture is placed in a clay pot and sealed
4. fermentation happens naturally over 5-7 days
5. water is added and the mixture is strained
6. the liquid handia is ready to drink

the ranu tablets are the secret. each family or community has its own recipe for ranu, using different combinations of local herbs. the herbs provide both flavour and the microbial cultures needed for fermentation. this traditional knowledge is passed down through generations, primarily by women who are typically the handia makers.

cultural significance

handia is integral to tribal life in jharkhand and odisha. it’s served at every significant occasion:

• sarhul festival: the spring festival celebrating the sal tree flowering. handia flows freely as communities celebrate.
• weddings and births: handia is the ceremonial drink at tribal weddings and naming ceremonies.
• community gatherings (akhara): evening socializing often involves shared handia.
• harvest festivals: post-harvest celebrations always include handia.

refusing handia when offered is considered impolite in tribal communities. it’s not just a drink. it’s an expression of hospitality and communal bonding.

where to try handia

handia is essentially impossible to find in commercial settings. you won’t find it at bars or liquor shops. to try handia, you need to:

• visit tribal areas in jharkhand (especially ranchi, khunti, simdega, west singhbhum districts) or odisha (sundargarh, mayurbhanj, koraput)
• attend a tribal festival during the right season
• know someone from the community who can offer you a taste

some cultural festivals and tribal fairs in ranchi and other jharkhand cities occasionally feature handia, but this is inconsistent.

what handia tastes like

handia is cloudy white, slightly thick, with a sour-yeasty taste somewhat similar to thin buttermilk mixed with mild rice flavour. it’s not carbonated. the texture is grainier than commercial beer. it’s served at room temperature or slightly warm. the sourness and body vary depending on the ranu used and the fermentation time.

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arrack (palm/coconut spirit)

arrack (not to be confused with middle eastern arak, which is anise-flavoured) is a distilled spirit made from coconut or palm sap, widely consumed across south and southeast asia.

what is arrack?

arrack is essentially what you get when you take toddy (fermented palm sap) and distill it. the distillation concentrates the alcohol from toddy’s 4-8% up to 33-50% ABV, creating a spirit rather than a wine-like drink.

in india, arrack has two very different identities:

country liquor arrack: cheap, often unregulated, made from palm sap or sugarcane. this is the “country liquor” sold at basic liquor shops in south indian states. it costs rs 50-150 per bottle and is what people mean when they say “desi daru” in southern india.

premium arrack (sri lankan style): sri lankan arrack is a refined, aged coconut spirit that’s been commercially successful. brands like ceylon arrack are exported globally and compete with rum and whisky. indian arrack hasn’t achieved this premiumization.

the legal situation

arrack has a troubled legal history in india. several states have banned it at various points:

• kerala: banned arrack in 1996 due to concerns about alcohol abuse and health issues from unregulated production. toddy remains legal but distilled arrack is prohibited.
• andhra pradesh: has periodically banned and unbanned arrack depending on the government in power. currently highly restricted.
• tamil nadu: country arrack (called sarayam) has been banned. TASMAC (the state liquor monopoly) only sells IMFL.
• karnataka: arrack is largely banned, with some exceptions for traditional production in specific communities.

the bans were driven by genuine public health concerns. unregulated arrack production has caused mass poisoning incidents when producers add methanol or other toxic substances to increase volume. these hooch tragedies, which have killed hundreds of people over the decades, have given all country liquor a dangerous reputation.

the distinction from toddy

factor	toddy	arrack
process	fermented only	fermented + distilled
ABV	4-8%	33-50%
equivalent	like wine/beer	like whisky/rum
shelf life	hours to 1-2 days	months to years
safety risk	low (fermented only)	higher (distillation can go wrong)
price	rs 20-40/glass	rs 50-150/bottle (country), rs 500+/bottle (premium)

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thaati kallu (telangana/andhra palm toddy)

thaati kallu is the telangana and andhra pradesh version of palm toddy, but it’s distinct enough from kerala toddy to warrant its own section.

what makes it different

the name “thaati kallu” literally means toddy from the thaati (palmyra) palm, as opposed to kerala toddy which comes primarily from coconut palms. the different palm species produces a drink with a different flavour profile.

palmyra toddy tends to be slightly sweeter than coconut toddy, with a more pronounced fruity character. it’s still cloudy, still mildly alcoholic (4-8% ABV), and still needs to be consumed fresh.

the thaati kallu culture

in telangana and andhra pradesh, toddy tapping is traditionally done by the goud community. thaati kallu is sold at simple roadside stalls and dedicated toddy shops, often accompanied by spicy snacks. it’s particularly popular in rural and semi-urban areas.

unlike kerala’s toddy shops which have become somewhat organized and even tourist-friendly, telangana and andhra toddy shops remain largely informal. the experience is raw and local. you sit on a bench, get a steel glass of fresh toddy, and drink it with some mirchi bajji or boiled peanuts.

availability

thaati kallu is available in telangana and andhra pradesh in licensed toddy shops. in hyderabad, toddy shops can be found on the outskirts and in some older neighbourhoods. it’s seasonal in some areas, with the best production during summer months when sap flow is highest.

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lugdi (himachal pradesh rice/barley beer)

lugdi is the traditional beer of himachal pradesh, particularly common in the kullu, manali, kinnaur, and lahaul-spiti regions.

what is lugdi?

lugdi is a fermented drink made from rice or barley, produced by hill communities in himachal. the grain is cooked, mixed with a traditional fermentation starter, and left to ferment in wooden or brass vessels for several days.

ABV: approximately 5-10%, though this varies considerably based on preparation.

the taste is mildly sour, slightly sweet, with a grainy character. it’s served at room temperature or slightly warm, which makes sense in himachal’s cold climate. it’s typically consumed during festivals, social gatherings, and as a regular evening drink in rural communities.

where to find lugdi

lugdi is available in some dhabas and local eateries in rural himachal, particularly in kullu district, manali, and the kinnaur region. it’s not commercially produced or bottled. you find it by asking at local establishments or being offered it by residents.

some tourist-oriented establishments in old manali and kasol have started offering lugdi, though the authenticity varies. the real stuff comes from homes and village gatherings.

cultural context

lugdi is tied to himachali festivals, particularly dussehra celebrations in kullu. it’s a communal drink, often prepared in large quantities for the entire village during festivals. the preparation is traditionally done by women, and the recipe for the fermentation starter varies by household and village.

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apong (assamese rice beer)

apong is the traditional rice beer of the mishing (miri) tribe in assam, one of the oldest tribal communities in northeast india.

what is apong?

apong is a fermented rice beer made using a specific process that involves bamboo and a traditional fermentation agent. there are two main types:

nogin apong: a lighter, clearer version made from regular rice. it’s less alcoholic and consumed more casually.

poro apong: a darker, stronger version made from rice that’s been roasted or smoked. it’s more complex in flavour and reserved for special occasions.

ABV: approximately 5-12% depending on the type and fermentation period.

how it’s made

rice is cooked, mixed with a traditional fermentation agent (made from specific plants and herbs known to the mishing community), and stored in bamboo vessels or earthen pots. the bamboo storage adds a subtle smoky, vegetal character that distinguishes apong from other rice beers.

fermentation takes 3-7 days. the resulting beer is strained and served fresh. like most traditional fermented drinks, it doesn’t keep long.

cultural significance

apong is central to mishing tribal culture. it’s offered to guests as a sign of respect, served at every festival (ali aye ligang is the biggest), and used in ritual ceremonies. the preparation of apong is a community activity, typically led by women who hold the knowledge of the fermentation process.

where to try apong

apong is available in mishing tribal areas of assam, particularly in majuli (the world’s largest river island), dhemaji, lakhimpur, and dibrugarh districts. some cultural festivals in guwahati and other assam cities feature apong, and a few tourism-oriented establishments in majuli offer it to visitors.

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zu (nagaland rice wine)

zu is the traditional rice wine of nagaland, produced by several naga tribes with variations across communities.

what is zu?

zu (also spelled zutho or dzutho depending on the tribe) is a fermented rice beverage made by the angami, ao, lotha, sema, and other naga communities. it’s made from glutinous rice mixed with traditional herbs and yeast, fermented in large bamboo or wooden containers.

ABV: approximately 5-15%, with stronger varieties produced through extended fermentation.

cultural importance

zu is deeply embedded in naga social life. it’s present at every significant occasion: hornbill festival, moatsu mong, sekrenyi, and other tribal festivals. it’s served at community feasts, offered to visitors, and consumed at evening gatherings.

naga hospitality traditionally involves offering zu to guests. refusing it, like refusing handia in jharkhand, can be seen as impolite.

the prohibition complication

nagaland has had various forms of prohibition over the decades, driven by the strong christian influence in the state. the current situation is complicated: commercial alcohol sales are restricted in many areas, but traditional drinks like zu are culturally protected to some extent. the tension between prohibition politics and traditional drinking culture is an ongoing issue in naga society.

availability

zu is available in naga homes and at community festivals. it’s not commercially produced or sold in shops. visiting nagaland during the hornbill festival (december) in kohima gives you the best chance of trying zu in a culturally authentic setting.

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other regional drinks worth knowing

beyond the major traditional drinks, india has dozens of smaller, hyperlocal alcoholic beverages that most people never encounter. a few worth mentioning.

chuak (tripura rice beer)

chuak is the traditional rice beer of tripura, made by the tripuri and other tribal communities in the state. it’s similar to handia and apong in concept (fermented rice), but uses different starter cultures and local herbs that give it a distinct flavour. chuak is mildly alcoholic (4-7% ABV), cloudy, and served in bamboo cups. it’s central to tripuri festivals like garia puja and kharchi puja.

kiad (meghalaya rice beer)

the khasi and jaintia communities of meghalaya produce kiad, a rice beer fermented using traditional methods. meghalaya’s version uses red rice in some variants, giving it a slightly different colour and flavour from assamese apong. kiad is consumed during nongkrem dance festival and other khasi ceremonies.

raksi (nepali/darjeeling spirit)

while technically not “indian” in origin, raksi is widely consumed in the darjeeling hills, sikkim, and among nepali communities across north bengal and northeast india. it’s a distilled spirit made from millet or rice, clear, strong (25-40% ABV), and has a sharp, slightly sweet taste. raksi is served warm during cold weather and is a staple at celebrations.

country liquor / desi daru (north india)

the generic “desi daru” or “country liquor” sold at government-licensed shops in states like uttar pradesh, rajasthan, and haryana is typically grain-based or molasses-based spirit. it’s different from the traditional drinks listed above because it’s commercially produced (albeit cheaply), taxed, and regulated. it’s the cheapest legal alcohol in these states, priced at rs 50-150 per bottle, and consumed widely by rural and lower-income drinkers.

this isn’t a traditional drink with cultural significance. it’s the bottom end of commercial alcohol production. the quality varies dramatically, and this is the category most associated with hooch tragedies when unlicensed producers try to undercut even these rock-bottom prices.

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the economics of traditional vs commercial alcohol

to understand why traditional drinks are disappearing, you need to understand the economics.

toddy tapper economics

a toddy tapper in kerala climbs 15-20 trees per day, starting before dawn. each tree yields about 1-2 litres of sap. a good day produces 20-30 litres of toddy, which sells for rs 30-50 per litre at a toddy shop. the tapper earns roughly rs 600-1000 per day in raw sap value, minus the cost of climbing equipment and transport.

that sounds reasonable until you compare it to IMFL retail. a single liquor shop selling branded whisky and beer can generate rs 50,000-100,000 in daily revenue. the economic incentive for state governments to promote IMFL (which generates massive excise revenue) over toddy (which generates modest revenue from small operations) is overwhelming.

excise revenue disparity

state governments make significantly more money from IMFL than from traditional alcohol. excise duty on IMFL is a major revenue source for states like karnataka, maharashtra, and tamil nadu, running into tens of thousands of crores annually. toddy, arrack, and other traditional drinks generate a fraction of that revenue.

this creates a perverse incentive. states benefit financially from pushing consumers toward IMFL and away from traditional drinks. banning arrack and promoting “premium” IMFL isn’t just a public health decision. it’s a revenue optimization strategy. when kerala banned arrack, IMFL consumption and excise revenue both increased sharply.

the tribal economic impact

for tribal communities in jharkhand, chhattisgarh, and odisha, mahua is both a cultural product and an economic one. mahua flowers are collected, dried, and either used for alcohol production or sold in local markets. restricting or banning mahua production removes a source of income from communities that already face economic marginalization.

this is why tribal rights organizations have consistently opposed blanket bans on traditional alcohol. it’s not just about the right to drink. it’s about the right to economic activity that has been part of these communities for centuries.

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all desi drinks compared

drink	region	base ingredient	ABV	type	legal status	commercial availability	price
toddy	kerala, goa, TN, AP, telangana	palm sap	4-8%	fermented	legal (most states)	toddy shops only	rs 20-40/glass
feni	goa	cashew apple / coconut	40-45%	distilled	legal (GI tag)	bottled brands available	rs 200-1000/bottle
mahua	jharkhand, MP, CG, odisha	mahua flowers	20-45%	distilled	grey area	almost none	not commercially sold
handia	jharkhand, odisha	rice + ranu tablets	5-8%	fermented	grey area	none	not commercially sold
arrack	south india, sri lanka	palm/coconut sap	33-50%	distilled	banned in most states	limited	rs 50-150/bottle (country)
thaati kallu	telangana, AP	palmyra palm sap	4-8%	fermented	legal	toddy shops only	rs 20-40/glass
lugdi	himachal pradesh	rice / barley	5-10%	fermented	tolerated	informal only	not commercially sold
apong	assam (mishing tribe)	rice + herbs	5-12%	fermented	traditional protection	none	not commercially sold
zu	nagaland (naga tribes)	glutinous rice	5-15%	fermented	complicated (prohibition)	none	not commercially sold

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the commercialization debate: can others follow feni?

feni’s journey from unregulated goan country liquor to GI-tagged premium spirit is the template that advocates for traditional indian alcohol point to. if feni can do it, why can’t mahua? why can’t toddy? why can’t arrack?

what feni got right

1. geographical concentration: feni is produced in one small state (goa), making it easier to organize producers and create a unified identity.
2. GI tag: the 2009 geographical indication tag gave feni legal protection and prestige.
3. tourism: goa’s massive tourism industry created a built-in audience of curious drinkers willing to try local spirits.
4. entrepreneurship: brands like cazulo, reiuva, and big boss invested in quality, packaging, and marketing to position feni as premium.
5. cocktail culture: feni’s entry into craft cocktail bars in mumbai, delhi, and bangalore gave it urban credibility.

why others struggle

toddy can’t be commercialized because it spoils within 24-48 hours. you can’t brand and bottle a product that goes bad before it reaches the shelf.

mahua faces regulatory barriers. most states don’t have a framework for licensing traditional spirit production. tribal producers lack the capital, infrastructure, and business knowledge to navigate excise regulations. and the association with hooch tragedies makes governments reluctant to support commercialization.

handia and apong are hyperlocal products tied to specific communities. scaling them up would require standardization that might strip away the cultural character that makes them special. there’s also the question of whether tribal communities want their ceremonial drinks commercialized and sold to outsiders.

arrack has been so thoroughly demonized by hooch tragedy headlines that rehabilitating its image would require a generational effort. sri lanka has shown it’s possible (ceylon arrack is a respected spirit), but india’s arrack doesn’t have the same starting point.

the way forward

the most promising path is what some people call the “craft spirits approach”: small-batch, artisanal production by licensed producers who invest in quality and storytelling. a craft mahua brand from jharkhand, a premium toddy-inspired drink, an artisanal arrack from a southern distillery. these would need regulatory support, investment, and most importantly, consumers willing to look past the “country liquor” stigma.

will it happen? slowly, maybe. india’s craft spirits scene is growing. consumers, especially younger urban drinkers, are increasingly curious about local and authentic products. the success of indian single malts (amrut, indri) shows that “made in india” is no longer a handicap for premium spirits. extending that mindset to traditional drinks is the next frontier.

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where to try desi drinks: state-by-state guide

if you want to actually experience these drinks, here’s where to go.

kerala (toddy)

head to any licensed toddy shop. fort kochi has several accessible ones for first-timers. the food is as important as the drink. ask for fresh morning toddy for the sweetest experience. pair it with karimeen (pearl spot fish) or tapioca and fish curry.

goa (feni)

any bar in goa can pour you feni. for the best experience, visit a local taverna in south goa (especially around benaulim, colva, or palolem). for premium feni, visit cazulo or reiuva tasting rooms. ask for feni with kokum soda for the classic goan combination.

jharkhand (mahua and handia)

visit during sarhul festival (march-april) in ranchi or surrounding tribal areas. tribal fairs and cultural festivals occasionally feature both drinks. this requires local connections or guided cultural tours. don’t expect to walk into a shop and buy these.

telangana (thaati kallu)

toddy shops on the outskirts of hyderabad. ask auto/cab drivers, they know the spots. go in the morning for fresh, sweet toddy.

assam (apong)

visit majuli island during ali aye ligang festival (february). the mishing community is welcoming and you’ll experience apong in its authentic cultural setting. some eco-tourism initiatives in majuli include apong tasting.

nagaland (zu)

hornbill festival in kohima (first week of december) is your best opportunity. naga hospitality during the festival is warm and zu is shared generously.

himachal pradesh (lugdi)

old manali and kullu during dussehra festival. some local dhabas in kullu district serve lugdi. ask around.

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a note on safety

traditional drinks from regulated sources (licensed toddy shops, branded feni, known community producers) are safe. the risk comes from unregulated, commercial-scale production of country liquor where producers cut corners: using methanol, industrial alcohol, or toxic additives to increase volume and potency.

the hooch tragedies that make headlines (and rightfully so, they’ve killed hundreds) are caused by illicit liquor production, not by the traditional drinks themselves. grandma’s handia made in a clay pot with family recipes is safe. a shady operation producing hundreds of litres of cheap arrack with industrial methylated spirit is not.

if you’re trying any traditional drink:

• drink at licensed or known establishments
• if someone offers homemade traditional alcohol from their family’s production, that’s generally safe
• avoid unnamed, unlabeled bottles from unknown sources
• if anything tastes harsh, chemical, or causes immediate burning beyond normal alcohol warmth, stop drinking it

for more context on alcohol safety and pricing across india, see my cheapest alcohol in india guide.

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related guides

• feni guide for goa: the complete guide to goa’s GI-tagged spirit
• best beer brands in india: from commercial lagers to craft beer
• cheapest alcohol in india: price comparison across categories and states
• legal drinking age in india: state-by-state breakdown of drinking age laws

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desi liquor in india: frequently asked questions

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drink responsibly. must be of legal drinking age in your state.